A treatment is applied to pull out as much of the gloss as possible leaving a porous level 10. The gloss that was applied by the previous stylist is looking slightly dark and green. The current canvas is blonde around level 9 or 10 with a natural base color of level 7. The Scenario: A client walks in that has just had their hair done. After this has processed for at least 10 minutes, rinse and apply a second gloss, such as: ¾ oz 7CB, ¼ oz 7C, ½ oz 8GG, ½ oz 6AA.ġ0. The first layer might be: 1oz 8WG, 1oz 8GG. The Solution: A double gloss is best for this scenario. The client would like the end result to be more of a copper tone. The Scenario: A natural level 6 arrives with previous highlights at a level 9. The Solution: The chosen gloss for a raw lift of 7 gold/orange might be ¾ oz 7CB, 1oz 7V, ¼ oz 7N.ĩ. Assuming this client is okay with a lot of warmth, it's best to enhance that warmth while also calming some of the brassiness down. Balayage is decided as the best option for a natural looking result. The Scenario: A natural brunette with previous root color (level 5) would like to add dimension to her hair. The Solution: After the balayage service is performed, the color melt might be 1oz 4NB, 1oz 5N.Ĩ. The Scenario: The client arrives with less than 50% gray around the hairline and wants to blend for a more natural look and grow out. The Solution: After lifting to at least a level 8 gold, the chosen gloss might be 1oz 7V, ½ oz 7VB, ½ oz 7N to neutralize the unwanted warmth.ħ. The Scenario: A client arrives with a natural level 5 and unwanted brassiness. The Solution: This gloss should include a fair amount of warmth on a level 10 lift, so a possible formula might be 1oz 10VG, ½ oz 9RB, ½ oz 9V.Ħ. She has minimal damage and is looking for something natural, but bright. The Scenario: A client arrives with previous lifted ends at a natural level 7 wanting more reflection and shine. The Solution: Assuming you are able to lift her to a level 8 yellow/gold, a great gloss for this would be ½ oz 7M, ½ oz 6RB, ½ 9RB, ½ 7P.ĥ. The Scenario: A natural level 5 arrives at the salon and would like more of a rosey violet finish. The Solution: Assuming your lift is around a level 7orange/gold, a great option might be 1 oz 6ABN, ½ oz 7V, ½ oz 7NW.Ĥ. Knowing the lift will be super warm, it's best to choose a gloss that helps neutralize but also isn’t completely ash as you need reflection for darker brunettes. The Scenario: A natural level 4 arrives with no previous color and wants to add dimension with balayage. The Solution: With a raw lift of level 9 yellow, a possible gloss choice might be 1 oz 9NW, ½ oz 9NB, ½ oz 9Vģ. The ideal result will be something reflective and neutral. The Scenario: The client arrives at a natural level 6 and wants a true bronde tone-not too warm and not too cool. The gloss might look something like 1 oz 9NB, ½ oz 9G, ½ oz 8WG, ½ oz 9VĢ. The Solution: Let’s say the raw lift is level 9 yellow. The key is to lift to a level higher than your intended target in order to get through the brassiness, and then replace the warmth within your gloss This client is looking to warm things up without being brassy. The Scenario: A natural brunette arrives with too cool of a tone for her olive complexion. Just a note: All of these formulations are formulated with Redken Shades EQ.ġ. The following scenarios are intended to help you practice your analytical skills and guide you to potential solutions if you find yourself in a similar situation. You need to use this information to craft a plan of attack that will take you from where you are to where you want to be. Clients come to you with certain goals in mind, and their hair is starting out from their own unique starting point. So much about formulation is about practice.